I need vertical shelves to hold large pieces of glass for my stained glass hobby. Does anyone know where I can buy some (maybe RTA?)or can you give me directions on how to build some? I am thinking 36″ high, 24″ deep. I am not much of a builder, so would need specifics on materials. thank you in advance!
Where do I find vertical shelves to hold stained glass sheets?
18
May
Oliver G
May 18, 2010 at 1:10 am
You could try advertising on your local Craigslist or look into ongoing options at Ebay. I’m sure these are your best solutions right now, apart from the hardware store.
Kat
May 18, 2010 at 1:26 am
maybe an art supply place? my mom used to have one she would have art canvas and art paper that was large and it kept them flat but stood up. but maybe make one yourself…scrapbookers have a similiar one for pages…
mike1942f
May 18, 2010 at 1:32 am
Ask your stained glass suppler if they have any extra of the boxes that the sheets are shipped in when you buy a case.
How you would build a box would depend on whether you wanted to move it with glass in it, whether you had 24″ or 36″ deep to put the box in and whether you wanted to take the glass out the side or out the top.
If you don’t want to move the box with the glass in it, then you can use 1/4 plywood or 1/8″ paneling for the sides and 1x lumber for the top bottom and back. You need to leave about an inch clearance for easing the glass out, so the back needs to be 37″ long and the top and bottom need to overlap the back board which is 3/4″ thick. The width of the boards can be chosen to match storage needs. I would suggest 1×6 for the first one and see if you want to go narrower.
If you are unwilling to saw, you can pay to have Home Depot or Lowes cut the pieces.
Cut the side panels to 24-3/4 by 38-1/2 with the grain running parallel to the long side and cut the back to 37″ and the top and bottom to 24-3/4. which comes to 86.5 inches and will come out of an 8′ board. Yellow pine will be tougher than white wood if you will pay extra for it. If you are willing to let the glass stick out a bit (which may be handy), making the top and bottom 24″ instead of 24-3/4″ will get 4 panels from a 4×8′ sheet. If you go for the larger size, you can get the “scrap” cut to 24×36 and use it as separators inside.
If you do it yourself, it is nice to have a square to mark across the board to guide sawing.
You will need yellow wood glue (Titebond II or Elmers), about a dozen 2.5″ long nails and 3 dozen 1.0″ long brad.
Apply glue to one end of the back, and nail the top with the 2.5″ long nails into the end of the board, making it as square as possible. Laying the L shape produced on a flat surface on its side, apply glue to the other end and put 3 nails into the bottom about 3/8″ from the end and spaced across the board. Line up the bottom so the end is even with the back and pound in one nail all the way. Now check that all of the 3 boards’ edges are evenly on the flat surface – this will make the top and bottom parallel for applying the panels. Pound in the other two nails in the bottom. Apply glue to the top edges of the boards and lay one side panel on them, pulling the ends of the top and bottom to position even with the edges before setting the panel down to keep from smearing the glue. Put one short (1.0″) in the corner of the panel to align the edge with top, then go to the bottom and pull if needed to align the board and panel and put in one nail. Move to the back corners and put one nail in each, pushing on the boards and panel and perhaps tapping with the hammer to assure that the glued corners are closed and to align them before the nail is pounded in. Put in a total of 4 nails in the top, 5 in the back and 4 in the bottom.
Turn the box over. If the flat surface is concrete you may wish to lay down some newspaper to protect the panel.
Install the other panel using the same nailing pattern.
Stand the unit it up and let the glue dry overnight.
Paint it if you wish.